Showing posts with label Onsen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Onsen. Show all posts

Sunday, August 16, 2026

Shinrin-yoku (Forest Bathing) and other concepts

I've recently been very interested in the meditative practice of Shinrin-yoku, or forest bathing. I've been reading about it and yesterday I got to take a Forest Bathing class at the Fort Worth Botantical Garden. The term and practice come from Japan, but aren't as ancient as you might think. Although it builds on Shinto practices that date back hundreds of years, the specific practice and terminology came about in the 70s when Japanese people were have mental crises and deaths by suicides as a way to disconnect from the fast-paced, high-stress modern realities and return to nature.

 

Back in high school, I became interested in the idea of learning the Japanese language because of the potential business applications within the then-booming Japanese economy, and probably also because its unique and I liked doing things that were different than the normal expectations. When I got the chance to study in Hiroshima, the immersion was a profoundly transformative experience in my life. Not only did I learn to speak Japanese well, but I learned about the religion and culture, broke myself of some picky eater preferences, and made lasting connections and memories.

 

While I have no actual Japanese heritage to speak of, I feel like Japan has been a part of my life all along - starting with learning, at a young age, that my Mom had been born on a US Navy base in Japan, although she didn't remember it because they moved when she was 3. My Dad worked in the electronics industry for most of my upbringing and often had business trips to Japan, bringing back souvenirs of a culture that felt very foreign to both me and my Mom.

 

So there is literally no surprise that, while seeking to be outdoors more and manage my mental and emotional health, I've found an affinity to the Japanese-based art of Shinrin-yoku. Nevertheless, it seems to be a renewable source of deeply resonating terminology that surprises me in the affinity.

 

An Amateur Primer on Shinrin-Yoku (森林浴, or Forest Bathing)

The hardest parts of Shinrin-Yoku are also the most critical. First, approaching a forest bathing experience with no expectations of the experience or of nature is a big part of it. While you will most assuredly get something out of it, setting goals or expecting some specific outcome is something you are counseled to avoid. Second, allowing yourself the time and being okay with it being "unproductive" or "inefficient" is part of the point. This is a very hard mindset to overcome for an efficiency and productivity engineer like myself, but it is hard for everyone in a modern, driven, fast-paced society. Some cultures can unwind and enjoy food or wine better than others, but I think the absolute lack of anything to "do" to occupy ourselves is tough for most, regardless. 

 

Shinrin-Yoku is not a hike or a form of physical exercise, and in fact, trying to couple it with exercise can also reduce the effect. Basically, the only requires are to be in nature, preferably in a thick forest with lush, green trees and a quiet place, but even those requirements can be waived or altered to practice wherever you may be able to get to. Other than that, the practice can be as simple as breathing, eliminating phone usage, and being in the moment. Finding a safe spot to sit, closing eyes helps to focus on scents and sounds. Some recommendations include touching, such as touching the bark of a tree or walking barefoot through grass or on dirt. There are a number of different things to imagine and meditate on, but that's the basics. 

 

The Japanese word is made of three parts: shin (森), forest or dense woods, rin (林), woods or grove and yoku (浴), bath or immersing (as in taking a bath). It is different than taking a dip in the water, like onsen (温泉), despite being a "bath" of sorts. 

 

My Early Experiences

Shinrin-yoku can be a lifelong practice with no mastery to be achieved, so I am writing this from the standpoint of having just recently started, and hopefully will be able to see how my practice changes in the future. But, no expectations, right?

 

One of the books I read suggested finding a quiet spot and doing prolonged, deep breathing exercises. One such exercise suggests, from a standing position, exhaling and folding over to push all the air out completely, before opening back up again and inhaling. Doing this while imagining that "bad air" or negative emotions are being expelled and forcing the purge of every "last drop" before breathing in the positivity of the forest is one way to make it meditative. I have practiced this a few times and usually enjoy pairing it with some light stretching while taking in deep breaths of the forest and imagining the phytoncides entering my body and boosting my immune system (there is real scientific evidence of this, but more on that later).

 

While the book "Rest" weigh heavily in my mindset, with the idea that good, fulfilling rest isn't idle, and can be very active and even rigorous, I've had to set that aside for my practices of Shinrin-yoku which are meant to not be active hikes. Sometimes I combine the activities, like last weekend when I hiked for a while until I found a pristine spot to sit for a while. Then I switched into Shinrin-yoku mode. Once I felt ready to move on, which probably wasn't long enough in hindsight, I continued my hike. 

 

In the class yesterday, our instructor talked about how the Japanese garden is a good place to practice Shinrin-yoku because it is intentionally layered with different levels and slightly uneven terrain. This forces us to pay attention so we can't idle walk along a smooth path ruminating about our concerns and issues. (My words, but you get the gist.) It reminded me a lot of my experience at the labyrinth, in which I felt like the short switchbacks at the beginning were there to pull us out of our heads and focus on the task at hand, and as the lengths grew longer, it felt more meditative now that I was focused on the path. 

 

 

Fukinsei (
不均整)

Beyond the walkways, the visual texture of the forest offers its own kind of therapy. Modern architecture and products have straight lines, symmetry and efficiency. Yet in nature, the most soothing scenes rely on fukinsei—the beauty of organic asymmetry and non-uniform repetition. The concept is that perfect symmetry feels closed and finished. Asymmetry feels alive and open to growth. It shows that true beauty comes from nature and irregular shapes instead of strict, matching sides. Looking up to a canopy of tree branches, our eyes naturally trace the fractal patterns formed by the leaves. Science shows that our nervous systems are hardwired to process these mid-range natural fractals, actively lowering our stress levels. It gives the analytical mind a place to rest without forcing it to shut down entirely. Last weekend, I spent some time in awe of the backlit leaves while laying in a hammock at the dome retreat. Yesterday, just laying on a bench, I had this same type of gorgeously simple view that made time fly by. 

 

 

Komorebi (
木漏)

Long before I had words for it or starting learning about Shinrin-yoku, I've always enjoyed scenes in which sunlight streams canopies of trees and overlapping leaves. The Japanese term for this is komorebi, and it describes sunlight filtering through the leaves of trees, creating a shifting pattern of light and dancing shadows. The word combines three kanji characters: (ko, tree), (more, leaking or escaping), and (bi, sun). I am often filled with a thrilling sense of awe when I see such a sight, and it has served as a major bonding moment when like-minded people share in my sheer joy at such a sight. 

 

 

Yūgen (幽玄)

In fact, I've had that sense of awe and joy when seeing the sun hit the clouds from an airplane window, or seeing other just weirdly perfect natural scenes. This is so much a part of my self-image that I tried to capture the words for it in the name of my blog, "Easily Thrilled." I've since found better words for it. In The Meaning of Your Life, Arthur Brooks speaks of a similar concept—a "luminosity" that radiates through certain experiences, defying easy explanation. In his model for our we construct meaning in our lives, part of the model involves the appreciation of the beauty of art and nature, and this indescribable beauty is perhaps the best form of it. A similar Japanese term is yūgen, pronounced yoo-gen. It means a deep, mysterious sense of the beauty of the universe—an awareness that triggers an emotional response too powerful and profound for words. The Kanji combines yū () which is dim, deep, or hidden, and gen () which is black, dark, or profound. 

 

 Yesterday after my class was over, I retrieved my phone (what a relief - haha), and I spotted the Great Blue Herron in the distance with a rushing waterfall behind it and beautiful trees in the foreground. The real-life image was like a magical portrait with so much depth and beauty, and I felt that sudden swell of awe. It’s a profound, almost mysterious sense of the beauty of the universe that words can't quite capture. While I took a few great photos, too, I never feel like the photos do the moment justice to the moment and the feeling, either. That's luminosity. That's yūgen.

 

Mono no Aware ()

This phrase is a core Japanese aesthetic concept pronounced moh-noh noh ah-wah-reh. It translates to "the pathos of things" or "the beautiful sadness of impermanence". I love it because when written in Romanji characters (the alphabet used by English readers), it reads like the English word "aware" and the prefix "mono-" which is singular. So it could be read in English almost like a singular awareness, or an awareness of this moment. In that way, it sort of makes sense in English and in Japanese. But the Japanese term is much deeper, I think. Aware () was originally an exclamation of surprise or deep feeling and evolved to mean sadness, pathos, or moving sentiment. No () is just a possessive particle, similar to "of" in English. Mono () represents things, objects, or the universe. Put together, it is a beautiful sadness: It is not a bitter or depressing grief, but a gentle, bittersweet appreciation of reality. Cherry blossoms, or sakura ( / さくら), are the ultimate symbol of mono no aware. They bloom beautifully but fall in just a few days, reminding us that life is short and fragile.

 

My inability to capture photographs of the beauty and awe that I feel and see in these scenes is a reminder for me of mono no aware. While I still often try to capture pictures to remember the moment (and for blog and socials fodder), I have also been intentional at times to stop trying to capture the perfect image and just sit in the moment and enjoy. Incorporating it into my Shinrin-yoku practice is both a challenge and a valuable part of my experience.

 

Onsen (温泉) and Toji (湯治)

My favorite "lost in translation" story was from my study abroad experience, when my host mom told us we were going to the onsen, but she was trying to explain it in English for her language practice. She told me it was a "big bus" which, paired with my understanding of the Japanese word for "big," I took to mean a long bus ride. She told me there would be lots of people and it would be very hot, which all tracked. Then she told me some of my American friends and their host families would be joining us. When I noticed my friend Mat with his camcorder, I asked if he'd be filming in the onsen. He seemed surprised at my question, and asked in response, "You do know we'll be naked, right?" Not yet comprehending the error, I responded, "What kind of a BUS is this?!?" After that, we cleared it right up, and it all made sense. That was how my first onsen experience began.

 

The experience itself can only be described as liberating. Being a white woman with a large chest, I stood out and was an object of curiosity among the Japanese women. And Japanese do not have the same sense of privacy not to stare as we westerners do, I suppose. So being nude in front of all those strangers and having them stare, I could only sort of laugh to myself, "Take it all in, ladies!" Since then, nudity and modesty have not been an issue for me at doctors or massage appointments, etc.

 

Beyond the liberating experience, onsens are sought after for healing properties. Toji is the name of the concept for healing through hot springs. And whether they can cure ailments or not, the heat of course helps aching muscles and it is just generally relaxing to sit in a hot bath like that. When I returned to Japan for vacation, I had a room on the island of Miyajima with my own private onsen bath, and it felt like I was communing with nature while soaking. I think that may also tie to the concept of shinrin-yoku to an extent. Even though my hot tub at my house in California was a chlorinated hot tub, soaking outside in the early morning, stargazing and watching meteors, or as the sun rose, seeing the trees and birds and lizards, also felt a little like shinrin-yoku or toji or some happy combination of the two.

 

 

So I guess I've been partaking in shinrin-yoku practices and indulging in the beauty of komorebi and yūgen long before I had the vocabulary. And while I won't change the name of my blog to komorebi, that's really what I mean when I call myself "easily thrilled."

Saturday, January 2, 2021

Makai, Toji, Abbiocco: My Favorite Places to Travel To

One of the hardest things about 2020 was the inability and reluctance to travel - obviously, some travel was technically possible but it would be far more difficult than normal and risky, of course. Before the COVID crisis really escalated, we were fortunate enough to take a 16-day cruise through the Panama Canal, which also brought us to a beautiful island in the Bahamas, Columbia, and multiple destinations in Mexico. And while that was a lengthy and extravagant vacation, it seems so long ago, even though it has been less than a year. We moved to San Diego shortly after, and would have loved to hit up Sea World and Disneyland, but both have been closed since we got here. The San Diego Zoo opened for a bit, and we got memberships and have visited often, but it is now closed again. The biggest disappointment was that the Tokyo Olympics were postponed, which we had tickets to and had been looking forward to for years! Hopefully, we'll be able to go this year if the games are not cancelled altogether.

While I think about 2021, I knew January 1st wouldn't mean COVID disappears and politics are perfect and racism no longer exists or anything like that. But I do see in 2021 a hope for healing - healing for our country, the start of the end of the pandemic, the ability to gather again and hug one another, healing to be had at funeral services postponed from last year, and maybe even better understanding and practices around race issues. Indeed, one can hope, right? And the thing that I look forward to most is to be able to travel without extraneous precaution or guilt. And though that is still in the future right now, I've been thinking about the reasons I like to travel and the places I've loved and want to visit again.

I've yet to visit South America in earnest (having just merely touched down in Columbia on our cruise) or Africa. In addition, there are many more places in Europe and Asia I'd like to visit, not to mention other places here in America. But I have visited three countries in Europe, two countries in Asia, multiple cities in Australia, and many states and landmarks in America. From these travels, there are three places I've felt absolutely, indulgently, at a peaceful perfection. I call these my "Happy Places" but they are so much more than that. They are places that calm, heal and inspire me. In the spirit of, "Eat, Pray, Love" I present a slightly lengthier version: "Makai, Toji, Abbiocco." These are words in the native languages of my three places.


Makai: Oahu

I may very well be taking this Hawaiian word way out of context, but I love the sentiment. It is common in Hawaii to give directions that mean towards the mountains (mauka) and towards the ocean (makai). My happiest place on Earth is at a specific restaurant on Waikiki called House Without a Key (which I often forget the name of, and call it Room without a Door instead). I discovered it the second time I went to Hawaii - the first time I went with my sister, nephew and Mom, and we stayed in Waikiki but on the other side of the beach. The second time I went was with Jaiman and his family for his grandmother's 80th birthday, and that was when I discovered this beautiful restraurant. There are a number of elements that make it perfect for me. For one, they have live traditional Hawaiian music performed nightly with hula dancers, which just puts me in a sort of zen trance. Another selling point is the fabulous cocktails - the Mai Tai is to Mai Die for! There is usually plenty of seating, and just enough lighting to see the people you're with but not so much that it drowns out the serene landscape as the sun sets. By far, the best part of it, though, is the location - it is settled right on the beach, with captivating views of Diamond Head and the whole Waikiki landscape, and of course, the beautiful big blue ocean. But, it is just slightly elevated so as not to be sandy - those of you who know me well know that I have a very strong aversion of sand and sandy feet. My love of the ocean is almost perfectly matched by my absolute hate of dirt and sand. Having lived in Panama City Beach, Florida for over a year, I got better about sand, especially because the sand there was much thinner and cleaner, so it put me more at ease. Now that we live in San Diego, I hope to go to the beach frequently, although it certainly won't be as often as when we lived in Florida because it's quite a hassle. Due to COVID precautions and shut-downs, we've only gone once, for my birthday, so far, but hopefully that will change in 2021. 

Anyways, I would love to return to Hawaii and explore more of the islands - I hear Maui is very nice and would like to visit that island. However, I think I'll still want to return to Waikiki and visit House Without a Key. I think it's so captivating because it indulges all my senses - the smell of the ocean breeze, the taste of the Mai Tai, the sound of the Hawaiian music, the breathtaking sights of the water, beach, mountains and dancers, and the feel of stable concrete under my feet (instead of sand). One of the things I loved about my last visit to Oahu was driving around the island, listening to Hawaiian radio and taking in the various sights, and then winding up at House Without a Key at the end of the day, as if that was my home base. A Hawaiian phrase I love is "Nānā i ke kumu" which means "Look to your Sense of Place and sources of spirit, and you find your truth." That is what House Without a Key is for me. Click here to watch the video recap of our trip to Oahu when I found this little piece of heaven on earth.

Toji: Miyajima

My Host Family, the Mitsuis

I studied abroad in Hiroshima during college, and my Host Mom gave me one of the most memorable and liberating experiences of my life, bringing me (unbeknownst to me) to an Onsen, or Japanese hot spring bathing house. The waters of the Onsen are considered healing and promote beauty and wellness. As long as I can remember, I've always loved taking baths, perhaps even more than I love swimming in the ocean, so the Onsen is a little like the ultimate bath. However, there are some things about the Onsen that are a bit foreign to Americans, especially a young, naïve, white, well-endowed American woman. For one, no bathing suits or coverings are permitted in the Onsen. In fact, the tiny towels (hardly larger than a hand towel) must be kept 15 feet or so away from the bath. 

The Onsen

So, if you're not comfortable with nudity and with being completely exposed, you may be a bit challenged in the Onsen. To be sure, male and female areas are separate, so you're only naked among your own gender. However, Japanese women's bodies are quite different than, well, than mine. And it is not considered rude to stare like it would be in America. So my boobs, free of a bra and all other coverings, attracted unabashed eyes everywhere I went. 

For added drama, my American classmate who was with me had a giant tiger tattoo over her stomach, which attracted not only stares but dirty looks, as tattoos are quite taboo in Japan. What's more, there is an element of racism, or at least a belief that Americans are "dirty," thus many Japanese women would exit the baths when they saw us coming, whether it was because we were white or because of the tattoo, we would never know. Anyways, it was a little like baptism by fire, I quickly had to become comfortable with my nudity in order to enjoy myself. 

Sakino outside the Onsen

Ultimately, I really did enjoy the hot, fresh water, the serenity of the surroundings, and the social aspect with my classmate our Host Moms. We even sort of met up with the guys in our group on the rooftop, separated by a fence but able to talk to each other when we ended up there at the same time. Ever since that first experience, I have been quite comfortable with my nudity, whether it's at a doctor, with a massage therapist, in a tanning bed, or, of course, in an Onsen. We were able to somewhat replicate the Onsen experience in Truth or Consequences, New Mexico, when we stayed at a hot springs hotel there. Most of the hot spring baths were public, mixed-gender and required swim suits or coverings. But, you could rent a private hot spring bath overlooking the river, and obviously wear whatever you want in there. However, the whole experience just wasn't quite as tranquil as the Onsen in Japan. 

Another place we visited while I studied there was the island of Miyajima, a ferry ride away from Hiroshima, where the deer will walk right up to you and try to steal your food or rifle through your bag. Supposedly, there are equally friendly monkeys in the mountains there, but in two journeys up and down the mountain, I have yet to come across them, and I've heard the same from other travelers. 

When Jaiman and I went to Japan for his first time, I insisted we make the trip to Miyajima and stay on the island for a few days. When we arrived, we were exhausted from travel and I had totally forgotten all about the amazing room I had booked. We stayed at the Miyajima Grand Hotel Arimoto, and the room I had booked was a traditional Japanese-style apartment with a private Onsen bathtub on the patio. "Toji" is the word for Onsen therapy, and that was exactly what I did for as much time as I could while in Miyajima. My body's clock was off the whole trip, so I'd wake up around 3 am full of energy and unable to sleep one more second, so I'd get up from the futon and soak in the Onsen for hours until Jaiman got up. We also enjoyed the meals there, as well as the Buddhist temples and Shinto Shrine, and of course, the deer and the natural beauty of the little island. Thus, Miyajima is my second happy place on Earth. Read more about Miyajima here.

There are also a ton of other amazing things to do in Japan. If you're interested, read my Japan Guide here.

Abbiocco: Venice

Because I've been so interested in Asia and focused so much of my travel thus far to Japan and China, I've only been to Europe once so far, visiting Italy, France and Spain. I am sure there is so much more to enjoy in Europe, but from my limited experience thus far, Venice was absolutely and by far my favorite city. The fact that it sits on water and a series of canals probably has a lot to do with it - I love all things water, from baths and hot springs to boats and the ocean, and canals and rivers are certainly part of that. But when I think about Venice, it's not just the beautiful landscape and bajillion winding corridors and bridges that I long for. I don't have much of a sweet tooth, so it wasn't the gelato, although that was delicious. And it wasn't necessarily the food itself, although it was all amazing, and perfectly paired with the abundant amounts of wine we had. What I love about it is the feeling of eating in this vibrant yet serene place. So the word I chose, abbiocco, is Italian for "the drowsiness that follows eating a big meal."



Honorable Mentions

Uluru - Perhaps the only place I absolutely loved that wasn't associated with water; in fact, it may be the perfect antithesis to water. There are a number of activities to do in and around the resort complex and the giant Ayer's Rock, Uluru, but I most enjoyed the view of the rock from our room. Read more here.



Niagara Falls - There are so many activities to do at Niagara Falls, not to mention the amazing ice wineries just a half hour north in Niagara-on-the-Lake, but my favorite memory of Niagara was having the amazing view of the falls from the comfort of our bed in our hotel room at the Sheraton on the Falls. 



Cosmopolitan Hotel in Las Vegas - The Fountain View rooms with balconies at the Cosmo afford amazing views, and many have nice bath tubs. We also love Secret Pizza and the many other delicious offerings at the Cosmo. During COVID lockdown, with so much closed, we went to the Cosmo twice, once for a small wedding, and once just to chill in luxury - we literally don't have to leave the hotel because it has just about everything we need to enjoy ourselves (and just a short walk away from our favorite Vegas drinks). 



Taku Glacier Lodge in Alaska - This was an excursion I did all on my own when my family did an Alaskan cruise. There are a lot of really wonderful and exciting things to do and see in Alaska, but this is one of the more unique experiences that I would do again in a heart beat. The excursion from Juneau included a round-trip ride on a seaplane to this remote little area overlooking a glacier and serving up a fishbake in a cozy little wilderness lodge. I don't usually enjoy eating fish, but I had to try it. I also enjoyed walking around the grounds, where a guide identified bear droppings - the possibility of running into a bear on the trail was a little exhilarating. Click here to watch my video recap.

 

 

A cabin in Show Low for Christmas - Throughout my travels, I have often found that I've gotten lucky with things that one cannot plan or pay for, like weather and wildlife. My family rented a cabin on AirBNB for Christmas one year up in Show Low, Arizona. The weather forecast did not show snow, but we were hoping. The weather leading up to Christmas Eve was cool but refreshing, and we took lots of walks and enjoyed time by the fire. Then about 4 pm on Christmas Eve, it started snowing, and it wasn't much by the time it got too dark to see. But on Christmas morning, about 4 inches had accumulated, and kids and adults alike spent hours playing in it, something we didn't get to do much living in Tucson and Phoenix at the time. The company and the lucky weather, paired with the beautiful cabin we rented, made it just about as perfect as a Christmas could possibly be.





So there you are, my happy places, my Makai, Toji, Abbiocco. 

May this year allow us to once again travel, and may we never take travel for granted!